Currant: American Brasserie

One of my regular haunts in Richmond just happened to be the best brasserie in Virginia as far as I'm concerned, and a definite plus was the fact that my best friend just happened to be one of the highest up chefs in the kitchen, which contributed to many a dining experience ending in an engorged belly and a painful toddle back to my apartment. I find the consistency of French cuisine in America comforting, and Can Can was my first true experience which I found to be great during brunch, lunch, happy hour, and dinner on a regular basis. The sentiment was confirmed when I was lucky enough to brunch at Bouchon in Las Vegas, but since moving to San Diego, I hadn't found the same caliber of Franco-cuisine. However, that aforementioned best friend/chef just happened to move here only a few weeks ago and during his job hunt stumbled upon Currant in downtown San Diego. It was a fortuitous discovery and perfect opportunity to put it to the test!

With Andy being jobless in a new town, and I being sadly underpaid, we decided to take advantage of the half-price happy hour menu, which is a solid 3 hours long every day. A happy find! The offerings proved to be pretty standard French-American cuisine, so with our usual selection of mussels (we opted for the French curry option) and fried pickle chips, both at 50% off, we toasted our cocktails (also on special during 4-7) and relished in our success. We had a few minutes until the bartender acknowledged us to take our food order, but they seemed pleasant enough, and with the other half of the small center-room bar being occupied with what seemed to be the male cast of the Jersey Shore dizzy with Cosmos, it was an excusable oversight.

The decor tiptoed the line of lavish and gaudy; many subtle classic touches were easily overlooked with the overabundance of garish additions. The bar itself dominated the already small space (the restaurant is located within the boutique Sofia Hotel on Broadway), and with it crowned on four corners with massive pillars, it almost seemed to be squeezed in as an afterthought. The lounge area adjoining the bar boasted several sage green velvety couches with pouf pillows aplenty- more nightclub than restaurant. Details fought to be recognized, and I felt somewhat claustrophobic nestled next to a giant support pillar on the left, a closely placed bar stool on the right, the section of the bar which no more than three people would fit at comfortably, and the floating cocktail rack above, which was towered over by another decorative screen which wrapped around the bar near the ceiling. Too much.

Our food arrived, and while the mussels were especially tasty with a thicker-than-expected yellow curry sauce, I was disappointed with the ratio of unopened (therefore inedible) mussels to opened. The fries were no contest second place to Can Can's, but certainly not bad by any means, and while the sauce seemed too similar to curry gravy to counter the nature of mussels which I find flourish in a thinner broth, it proved to be a glorious dipping sauce perfect for the frites. The fried pickles did not come breaded as expected, but battered in a light and delicious tempura batter with paired nicely with the house ranch. I personally find dill by itself to be somewhat overwhelming and prefer it as a paired herb, but for $3 I was satisfied with the plate. However, it falls short of the normal lunch/dinner price of $6, which piques my curiosity to the difference between the "cheaper" (i.e. less time taken by a generally less experienced cook) happy hour servings vs. the dinner portion.

Overall, it was a positive experience, and a place that will most certainly draw me to downtown when few places appeal to me enough to fight the traffic and pay for parking. Despite the oppressively small bar space and odd Gaslamp clientele, the happy hour prices are on the money, and the familiarity of brasserie style is one that will keep me coming back, perhaps even for dinner!